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Epitaph

Thursday, July 28, 2016 | By: John Beauchamp

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“It’s worth a visit.”  The cemetery? Really? --I had just asked the lady behind the counter at a gift shop in Richmond, VA, about local sites of interest. She asked if I had been to Hollywood Cemetery. Stating that I had not, she said it was worth the visit. -- After all, it is the second most visited cemetery in the nation and it is a national treasure. -- So jumping back in the car, I headed off to see this outdoor museum.

 

Upon passing through the gates, I quickly realized this wasn’t the “typical” graveyard... It was immense, with winding trails set among the hills and knolls of the James River banks. I stopped for a map of this 1847 graveyard at the caretaker's office. The receptionist directed me to follow the blue lines painted on the pavement. With the map in tow, I was sure to see all of the indicated highlights. Walking back to the car I noticed the sky appeared rather ominous, as it was clouding up for a summer storm.  It felt a bit strange, standing in such a place with a pending storm, but I was determined to find out why this was such a major tourist attraction.

 

First up on this trail of discovery was the “visitor’s favorite”: an iron dog watching over the grave of Florence Rees. Her epitaph declaims a short life of less than 3 years. It certainly gives one reason to pause. Although the little site is often decorated with coins, jewelry, and toys, it is her canine protector that visitors love to photograph.

 

A Companion Watching and Waiting

Grave of little Florence Rees

 As the sky continued to darken, I made my way to the Monument to the Confederate War Dead. The shrine is a 90-foot pyramid of stacked James River granite which stands as a remembrance of the 18,000 Confederate soldiers who are laid to rest here.  Following the Civil War in 1869, it was the Hollywood Memorial Association (the women who tended the graves), who raised money to erect this tribute. History has it that the construction crew was unable to place the capstone at its crown; however, Thomas Stanley, a convict from Lynchburg, volunteered to climb to the top and set the stone. His successful attempt earned his freedom from prison.

 

Monument of the Confederate War Dead

Built in 1869 of James River granite. Blocks are stacked without bonding.

From a hilltop within the cemetery, there is an incredible view of downtown Richmond and the James River. It is also here that you will find President’s Circle. Buried among this historical site are the graves of James Monroe (5th President of the United States), John Tyler (10th President of the United States), and Jefferson Davis (President of the Confederate States of America). By the time I had reached this point the storm was beginning to drop rain and the thunder was rolling.  Funny…I felt as if the dead were asking me to leave!

 

View of downtown Richmond, Virginia, and the James River

View of the James River

President John Tyler

President James Monroe

Jefferson Davis, President of the Confederate States of America

Back in the car, I drove slowly through the lanes of headstones. Some were very simple, while others were quite elaborate. A bevy of mausoleums provided architecture, knowledge, and reverence. It occurred to me that it is not about what you can see; but rather, it is about the countless lives laid to rest here for eternity.--Each gravestone sharing a final word or thought about the soul therein. In a way, this is a history book of how lives were spent. 

 

The shower had become a storm. It was time to leave. With the raindrops pounding the windshield, I drove out, contemplating what my own headstone might say. 

 

This was A Moment in America.

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2 Comments

Jul 30, 2016, 7:04:49 PM

Austin Rese - It was truly a delight. Richmond is a treasure of history and intrigue. Thank you for sharing your passion of home.

Jul 30, 2016, 3:50:48 PM

JoAnna Benett - Hi you, I am so glad you were able to see my beautiful city and some of the very
historic sights. Some city right!

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